Bon Vogage

This recent article in the Times by the late R.W. Apple caught my eye, I think because it hovers at the intersection of several recent foodland and blogosphere discussions: what 5 things to eat before you die and the mystery of Michelin stars, to name but a few. The piece lists the ten restaurants Apple deemed worth hopping on a plane for. I am not nearly as worldly as he, so my list is culled from a shorter (and nearer-flung) list. All are places I would go back again and again, whether I've eaten there once or a million times. Here they are; we'll see if I can muster 10.

Chez Michel ~Paris~
A small spot near the Gare du Nord that serves Breton food. It's rustic, the perfect place to dash in to on a cold Parisian winter's night. I remember the hand-chalked menu that rotated from table to table; a small jar filled with smoked salmon, purple potatoes, carrots and slinky onions that no mortal could finish; and, a crock of paté that was good enough to be dangerous in a When Harry Met Sally kinda way.

Da Roberto ~Rome~
Our last night in Rome several years ago, we dropped in to Da Roberto (not its "proper" name, you know how they do that in Italy). We were the only folks in the joint, which is always worrisome, but that meant we got the attention of the proprietor, who ordered for us. What I remember from the veritable orgy of food was sweet, fresh mozzarella on a plate of caprese; whisper-thin prosciutto wrapped around juicy melon; pasta that I recall was heavenly, though I don't remember now what it was; the best roast potatoes I have ever had -- crispy outside, soft inside; and, the fish, first cooked whole and proudly presented à table, then taken back to the kitchen to filet. We ordered a magnificent wine for what Mr. Food Musings assured me was pennies, and finished with a few shots of grappa from a bottle the size of a baby (and thus called a bambino). We waddled outside and walked around the Forum afterwards, heavy in our bellies and in the knowledge that so many souls from so many civilizations had walked on that very same ground.

Moro ~London~
My love affair with this Spanish-Turkish restaurant, named for the Moors from whence it draws its inspiration, began with its cookbook. The rough-hewn pages and vivid photographs had me drooling, and when I had one London night last December to spend on dinner, this is where I went. The sunchoke and chorizo soup you see on my blog right now is from that meal. Mmm...

Mama Zoya's ~Moscow~
Plenty will argue that Guriya is better, but when I lived in Moscow 10 years ago, Mama Zoya's was one of very, very few restaurants in town. Though it's now housed on a barge on the Moskva River, the original location was tucked away in a low-ceilinged building that did a fair impression of a cozied up cave. Wine could be brought in (no corkage) and the khachapuri (cheese bread) was to die for.

Mt. Burgess Dining Room ~Emerald Lake, British Columbia, Canada~
The setting is incomparable: one small lodge clings to the shore of the brilliant Emerald Lake, which is ringed by the Rocky Mountains. The only view is of the water and the craggy hills that rise up from it; the only intruders, those staying at the lodge. Food is Canadian-inflected California cuisine with plenty of wild game, indigenous berries and local wines.

Old Yellowstone Garage ~Jackson, Wyoming~
So good, Mr. Food Musings got up from his seat after our appetizers were eaten to make reservations for the next night. It's Piedmontese-style Italian fare with a bit of cowboy flare. I loved the zucchini carpaccio with fresh mint, and we took home a bottle of the exquisite olive oil they serve.

Steinhilber's ~Virginia Beach, Virginia~
Nearly every trip home includes a visit to Steinhilber's. It's located at the end of a long and winding road in a sedate neighborhood far from the throngs of red-shouldered tourists that come for the sand and surf. Steiny's, as the locals call it, has been in business for 65 years, and their jumbo, fried butterfly shrimp and sauce are famous for a reason. Have a cocktail outside overlooking the Lynnhaven River and then go inside to the traditional, dark wood dining room. (Hint: opt for the Parmesan pepper salad dressing and the twice-baked potato with your meal.)

Second Street Lunch ~Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina~
Maybe I'm waxing a bit nostalgic here, but this mom and pop hamburger joint is the one place that reigns supreme in my family's food lore. The booths and floors have been there since the dawn of time, and no doubt a layer of grease and grime has as well, but you can't beat the unnaturally cherry-red hot dogs and paper-thin burgers. There's no menu, so know that full dressed means chili, sweet slaw, mustard and onions -- you add the ketchup at the table. The same lucky woman takes your order and cooks your food, which is the cheapest around. it's a small town institution that can barely handle the crowds come Thanksgiving and Christmas, when all the towns prodigal sons and daughters and their offspring swing by for the annual fix. My grandfather came in for a hot dog and a small bottle Coke nearly every day of his retired life.

Comments

[Tana]

Wow, are you well-traveled, or what?

I'm impressed!