Zatar

Zatar refers to a Middle Eastern spice that tastes of thyme, as well as to a dip made from said zatar (or dried thyme), sesame seeds, sumac, sea salt and olive oil. At this jewel box of a restaurant in Berkeley, the latter is served to every table to awaken the palate and welcome you to dinner.

Mr. Food Musings and I met the Restaurant Whore and her husband -- I know, I know, the irony -- at Zatar last Saturday night. As we walked in, I felt myself warm to the golden glow emanating from beaded lights that hung from the high ceiling. With its smoky murals along two walls, brilliantly patterned Moroccan pottery hanging on another, and piles of terra cotta tagine pots stacked in the kitchen, it reminded me of an other-worldly bazaar. I kept waiting for a snake charmer to begin coaxing his cobra from a woven basket, or for a dark-eyed beauty to emerge from the kitchen, shaking her bare belly and clinking finger cymbals.

When she emerged, she wasn't wearing her belly dancing garb; nevertheless, co-owner Kelly Majid seduced us with food billed as "eclectic Mediterranean," a reference to the mix of Middle Eastern and European influences. Husband and co-owner Waiel, who was raised in Northern Iraq, shares her belief in the connection and balance between cooking and nature, and the Majids practice what they preach, serving meats and produce that are local/sustainably-raised/organic, including vegetables, herbs and fruits from the extensive half-acre garden they maintain in nearby Oakland. Even the wine list reflects their devotion, with small production, organic and/or bio-dynamic bottles.

The first dish to pique my curiosity was chevre, manchego cheese and thyme baked inside phyllo dough. I clapped my hands with glee until I learned they were out; instead, Mr. FM and I shared crostini topped with tomatoes, summer squash and thick warm slabs of haloumi cheese. Mr. Whore and I both enjoyed our fork tender lamb shank, served Southern-belle style with black eyed peas and turnip greens, while The Whore devoured bite after juicy, expertly seasoned bite of chicken kebab served off the skewer. We gossiped over a sultry bottle of tempranillo and, when that ran out, a slightly more reserved Barbaresco; we exhaled simultaneous sighs of disappointment when told that the cardamom ice cream studded with dates and walnuts had run out. Though the salmon was fishy and, in an annoying trend, the Vin Santo dessert wine had also sold out, I forgave Zatar these minor transgressions in light of the intoxicating comfort food. Who says soul food's only served south of the Mason-Dixon line?

Next time I'm in Berkeley, I'm going back. Got to get me some of that ice cream.

Zatar, Berkeley, CA, 1981 Shattuck Avenue, 510.841.1981

Comments

[Becca]

Zatar does have nice ambience, and when I tried it about a year ago, the food was very good--but it's rather pricey, and they don't take credit cards.

[Catherine]

Becca, you are right about the credit cards, which is annoying. I decided that the fact that most of the produce they serve comes from their garden is just so cool that I was willing to forgive a few sins.

[Dave Lord]

In Australia we can buy Kabatilo (brand name)"original thyme" zatar: 1kg (=2.2 lb) for under $6AU. Ingredients include thyme, sumac, sesame, salt, caraw'ya (caraway?), roasted wheat, citric acid and vegetable oil. It is made in Jordan. I feel sure that a check at Middle Eastern stores will find it.