Entropy is my sworn enemy, and Order my one true love. (Well, okay, Mr. Food Musings, don't pout, maybe it's my second true love.) And so I find myself a day back from holiday and bursting with tales of soft green coconuts, salty macadamia nuts, barely sweet fresh pineapple, flaky white fish like ono and opah just pulled from the sea, reddish-yellow mangoes that don't have to soften before eating, and coconut caramel ice cream -- but I must bow down to my God, Chronological Order, and write first about things I ate in San Francisco in the weeks before Mr. FM and I sailed away to the Garden Isle.
Bocadillos
The Scene Like the tapas on the menu, Bocadillos is a casual spot meant to be enjoyed at any moment of the day or night for short or long stretches of time. Walls the color of red peppers, pale wood communal tables down the center and metal chairs each contribute something different to the mix: the walls, a cozy warmth; the tables, an invitation to share your food and your night; the chairs, a spare esthetic echoed by the simple fare. A no reservations policy encourages you to swing by whenever the mood strikes.
The Staff Gerald Hirigoyen, formerly of Fringale and, more recently, Piperade fame marries his native Basque cuisine with traditional Spanish tapas (called pintxos in Basque country). The restaurant's name refers to miniature sandwiches, several of which grace the menu each night and prove that Hirigoyen has done his homeland proud. His chef de cuisine, however, is the one you're most likely to find in the kitchen.
The Stand outs Make sure you order at least one of the namesake bocadillos like the hearty Catalan sausage with arugula and manchego cheese, sliced in two for sharing. Boquerones (a type of anchovy), olives, artichokes and marinated mushrooms come artfully skewered on a wooden stick, their salty, puckery flavors comingling just as beautifully. Baby back ribs are glazed in honey and sherry and make for a sticky treat, and the quail with so-called Moorish flavors was a seductive dish indeed. Don't miss the chocolate cake -- yes, it's ubiquitous, but it had two serious foodies (one professional, one amateur) fighting for every bite.
The So whats? In two visits I never ate something I didn't think was done well, but not every morsel is an exercise in gustatory astonishment. I avoided the section cutely titled "Innard Circle" (though that's a personal preference). Some plates like vegetables, olives or cheese are to be commended for their simplicity, though the corresponding price tag may seem a bit much.
Bocadillos, San Francisco, 710 Montgomery Street, 415-982-2622
Nectar
The Scene This Marina wine bar cum retail wine shop cum restaurant is a study in sleek modern with splashes of color, calling to mind the West Elm catalog sitting on my coffee table. But there's something to it: the dark wood floors, plush purple chairs and white walls obviously appeal to the mainly 20- and 30-something clientele. Cubic stools line the short side of the bar and, though upholstered in what looked to be hair, were comfortable through a long night. If you get a table, prepare to lean forward so you can hear your dining companion over the din.
The Staff The two men behind the bar traded off making passionate, nearly zealous, recommendations about wine and food. All were taken, and all were fabulous. We appreciated their genuine interest, and maybe they appreciated ours as well, for we were rewarded with a gratis glass of dessert wine before the night was over. Chef Armando Litiatco changes the menu frequently and pairings are suggested for each dish.
The Stand outs We went for wine...and, thank goodness, stayed for dinner. Flights provide three generous tastings with fun-filled themes like bad-assed reds or anything but chard. Two we had and liked were the 2003 Karl Lagler Gruner Veltliner from Austria and the 2002 Pena Tajada Crianza, a tempranillo from Spain. Grilled asparagus, soft-shell crab, lamb three ways (each better than the last) and escabeche of sole are dishes I know I oohed-and-aahed over, though the two glasses of wine I drank before eating them clouded my recollection of how each was dressed. I remember that they were divine enough that not a bite was left on any plate, and I swore as I walked out at closing time that I'd be back soon.
The So whats? Hmmm. Maybe the two overly drunk men who came in at the end of the night and tortured us with their pathetic attempts to win over any unchaperoned gal in the place? Yes, that was the only downfall.
Nectar, San Francisco, 3330 Steiner, 415-345-1377
Where is the Church of the Chronological Order?
Posted by: Bill | July 20, 2005 at 06:24 PM
That made me laugh right out loud! It's chez moi, baby.
Posted by: catherine | July 20, 2005 at 07:00 PM