It was a busy weekend; we had friends in town from London, and Sunday was Mother's day. One day soon I'll get back behind the stoves, but until then, here are two more places to put on your list.
Baraka
The Scene Dim lights, terra cotta-hued walls, arched doorways and candlelit chandaliers lend exotic, Old World charm to this mostly Moroccan Potrero Hill-side boîte. Chairs are carved from heavy metal, reminiscent of centuries-old armor, and tables are topped with burnished copper. Poor ventilation means the dining room is always a bit on the warm side, so dress for the African desert, order a rose martini (made from sake) and act cool.
The Staff A sequined tunic-clad hostess and the waiter's beguiling French accent seduce you moments in to your dinner. Chef David Bazirgan, a native Bostonian who cooked at the now defunct Elisabeth Daniel, offers a selection of small plates, tagines (a traditional Moroccan stew) and large plates.
The Stand outs What isn't? Current menu faves include mussels with chorizo sausage in a tomato broth, scallops with sweet corn and morel mushrooms, warm goat cheese studded with green pistachios, calamari tossed with bread crumbs and so tender you can nearly cut it with a fork, and any of the tagines. Fries with spicy harissa aioli are a splurge well worth it.
The So whats? Desserts didn't tempt - the orange beignets with honey have been taken off the menu, and though we pouted and cried, there was nothing to be done.
Rose Pistola
The Scene The best seat in the house is either on the sidewalk on an unseasonably warm evening, or at the counter near the pizza ovens where you can watch the action. The rest of the restaurant is filled with toffee-colored booths and patterned carpet that wouldn't be out of place in a hotel dining room. A bit more effort and this North Beach classic would be beating away crowds of locals, for the food is excellent.
The Staff Chef Armando Paniagua turned out nearly perfect dishes from start to finish. His menu is heavy on cold and hot antipasti which shouldn't be missed. Reports that the food has been buoyed by a recent trip through Liguria, a small region in Northern Italy and home to the cliff-dwelling villages of Cinque Terre, turn out to be true. The valet was the friendliest I've ever encountered, and he remembered to swipe the pink ticket from the dash - a perfectionist!
The Stand outs Anchovies with the head and tail still attached (but minus the guts) are fried whole and served with tartar sauce and fried green olives that I couldn't stop eating. Grilled artichokes, citrusy calamari with shaved fennel, and crostini with fava bean puree and morel mushrooms whet your appetite for more. A whole branzino (white fish) can be prepared for one or two in a variety of ways; watch the server fillet it tableside (keep the head, if you want it). A bottle of Ioppa Ghemme 2000, the same wine we had at Babbo, made me squeal with glee after I'd drained my white peach Bellini.
The So whats? On our visit, the chef didn't miss a beat.
Baraka, San Francisco, 288 Connecticut Street, 415-255-0370
Rose Pistola, San Francisco, 532 Columbus Avenue, 415-399-0499
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