I confess that my eating has outpaced my writing the last few weeks, so I'm combining the latest round of outstanding meals into one write-up. I know, woe is me, dashing off to restaurant after hip new restaurant...
Jack Falstaff
The Scene Soft green suede covers walls, columns, even seat-backs in a successful attempt to subdue the noise, while the bar and lounge sport space-age-meets-modern chaises and tables that can make do as either.
The Staff Chef James Ormsby from PlumpJack Café takes an "elemental approach" with slow-braised meats and organic desserts. The sommelier's picks are expert; we fell in love with a Ribolla Gialla Movia 2002, a Slovenian white with strong honey on the nose that's nice and dry for sipping, and a medium-bodied Hirsch Pinot Noir that satisfied Mr. Food Musings' and my warring palates.
The Stand-outs Niman Ranch pork belly turns up not as crispy bacon, but as succulent slow-cooked meat with a side of sweet/tart strawberry rhubarb salad; authentic tod mun (Thai fish cakes) make you think you're in Bangkok; Kobe beef ravioli sits in a puddle of earthy broth and supple, farm-raised carabou packs flavor without being gamey.
The So whats? Cauliflower couscous sounds and looks cool ("How'd he do that?") but it's bland, despite the addition of curry; the crab/jicama rolls were a tad too sweet. On the other hand, the cheesecake with real chevre was too tangy to qualify as dessert.
Myth
The Scene Partitions and built-in booths smartly separate entryway, bar and several dining areas to create a space that's cozy enough for comfort and roomy enough to let loose. Fabric panels that hang from the ceiling create an intimate effect, and the open kitchen is in plain sight for the curious (who, me?)
The Staff Alex Fox: charming sommelier or Dapper Dan? You be the judge. In his pin-striped suit, he hawks the wine list, a collection that boasts a lot of small production wines. He served us a Londer Gewurtztraminer, a Paradigm Cabernet Franc, and a splurge-o-rific School House Pinot Noir blessed with the refinement and restraint of the Old World and the bright fruit of the New.
The Stand-outs Warm sweetbread salad presented in a compact tower, the sweetbreads crisp, the most perfect I've tasted; beef cheeks, a modern-day beef stew with horseradish mashed potatoes, epitomize the notion of comfort food; scallops with a dusting of porcini mushroom and more creamy mashed potatoes make you go mmm...
The So whats? Chilled asparagus soup, which the waiter warned us away from (I'll listen next time) was a stunning emerald green, but a lemony effervescence trampled the asparagus. Dessert didn't match the artistry or originality of the savory courses, and my dining companion E. professed them to be "the worst desserts in recent history." I didn't think they were that bad, but they aren't worth the calories.
U Street Lounge
The Scene Marina darlings and their boy toys flock to this Union Street hang-out, so shimmy into your Citizens and get gussied up. A red neon sign alerts you to the lounge in the back, though you can hardly miss the dull thrum of music. If you're there to eat, go early to avoid late-night make-out sessions on the vibrant red and gold accented banquette.
The Staff Chef Michael Schley, of PlumpJack Café by way of the French Laundry, is a shy cutie-pie who circulates on the floor to make sure all is well, even directing traffic to the hidden bathroom. If he knows you like something - in our case, the lemon creme fraiche and caviar-filled potatoes - he just may surprise you with a nibble on the house.
The Stand-outs The small plates idea is a little tired to some (yawn) and a crowd pleaser to others. Start with an order of those mini caviar potato shooters or a plate of ice-cold oysters; the duck breast is sweet and moist - we ate one serving and promptly ordered another! Don't let the "matchstick potatoes" on the side fool you; one bite reveals that they're apple. Real fries are crisp and fluffy, and the beef short ribs are to die for.
The So whats? A holdover from the Morphio days, the hot and cold tuna sounds great but lacks pizzazz. The fried calamari, even with a nice light batter and three exotic dipping sauces, is still just fried calamari. Not bad if you have a case of the late-night munchies, but not worth your time at dinner.
Jack Falstaff, San Francisco, 598 Second Street, 415-836-9239
Myth, San Francisco, 470 Pacific Avenue, 415-677-8986
U Street Lounge, San Francisco, 1980 Union Street, 415-409-0150
So many restaurants, so little time! I can visit lots of delectable places just by reading your blog!
Posted by: Mom | May 04, 2005 at 03:00 PM