Driving down Highway 37 between San Francisco and Napa with the windows down, 1:45 pm
Me: (taking a deep breath) You know what I love about this area? You can smell the land. It’s like you inhale the terroir with every breath. Can’t you smell the grapes, the earth, the fecundity of it all?
Little Brother: Yeah.
Me: It’s so wonderful to live in the city, and still be this close to the countryside. Look at those rolling green hills; can you believe we were in the middle of Union Square less than an hour ago?
LB: Yeah.
Me: See those cows up ahead? The Holsteins, with the classic black and white spots? (sigh) It’s so idyllic up here. The animals, the land, nature everywhere. Take another breath. You can almost smell summertime!
LB: (hastily rolling up the window) I think that’s the cows.
***
When Little Brother was last in town, we drove up to Napa for the day. Over the last few years I’ve found myself playing wine country tour guide countless times and, lest my perfectionist tendencies show up uninvited, causing me to lose even more countless hours poring over maps, debating lunch spots and devising a seamless itinerary, I’ve developed a routine. Here are my favorite places to hit.
FOOD
Viansa Winery Grab a glass of Arneis, an Italian-style white wine, and a panini or pasta salad before heading out to sit at a picnic table overlooking vineyards and restored marshlands. Sometimes on summer weekends, a small jazz quartet will serenade you through a lazy summer sun-filled lunch. Highway 121
Bistro Jeanty Peasant food good enough to make the aristocracy revolt. The beef stew is served with a heap of mashed potatoes, baby carrots and peas so buttery your bread will be jealous; tomato soup comes with a lid of puff pastry that lets off a burst of steam when cracked open with your spoon. Nab a table outside on a warm day, drink loads of wine with lunch, then order the vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce and a shot of Armagnac to get your blood flowing again. Yountville
Taylor’s Refresher “A cheeseburger, fries, and a glass of Merlot, please,” is a familiar refrain at this old-time burger joint. (And yes, they really do serve wine.) Picnic tables line a grassy lawn; order a burger and it'll come wrapped in a buttery bun and waxy paper. Fries are served in red-and-white-checked paper boats and milkshakes take you back to your childhood. St. Helena
WINE
Robert Mondavi I'm never sure if it's the rose bushes flowering near the entrance, the cool metal sculpture in front of the courtyard, the Spanish Mission-style architecture or the fact that Mondavi was the first decent wine I ever drank, but I love this winery. They do a tour that starts in the vineyards, snakes through the bowels of the production facilities and ends in a "library" where they offer you several glasses of wine along with some crackery nibbles. Highway 29, Oakville
Domaine Chandon v. Domaine Carneros The offspring of Möet Chandon (LVMH) and Taittinger go head to head in this Battle of the Champagne Titans. I prefer Chandon for its leafy green trees, duck ponds and outdoor patio (though they always run out of bread right as I order the paté...grrr!) Mr. FM admires Domaine Carneros for its chateau and the view of unspoiled Carneros. Yountville and Carneros.
Artesa Stunning architecture and great Pinot Noirs are a killer combination. Built into a hillside, the winery is hidden until you're right up on it. Walk up the steps to the top and horizon pools of cool water flank the pathway on either side; the water flows downhill to a fountain that sputters several stories below. The unrivaled vista is green on all sides with nary a building or trace of human existence in sight. Taste Pinots from vineyards in Russian River and Napa and see which you prefer. Carneros
Peju Recently discovered (by me, I mean) this winery does tastings a bit differently. Don't expect to just belly up the bar and start drinking; they'll wait till they have a group formed and then do tastings for the entire bar. It annoyed me at first, since we had to wait a few minutes, but I warmed up to it when the man behind the counter started cracking jokes. Two not to miss: the Provence, a red wine that's served chilled and pairs well with Thai food, and the reserve Cabernet that goes for $85. $5 gets you those tastes, plus 5 more, and is refunded when you buy a bottle. Most of their wines are nearly impossible to find outside the winery so if you find something you like, stock up. Rutherford
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