Restaurant Roundup: Foreign Cinema & Home on Union

ForeignCinema
The Scene The combination of an unobtrusive and nearly hidden entrance and the long, votive-lit concrete entryway makes you feel like a movie star entering a mysterious playground for the rich and famous. Soaring high ceilings, a working fireplace and whimsical chandeliers that remind me of Lite-Brite further the aura of romance, albeit with an industrial sensibility. Nab a table outside under the cover of darkness and dine while European films flicker against the building behind you, or sit at either of the bars, eat oysters, and watch the hip and beautiful people glide by.

The Staff Chefs Gayle Pirie and John Clark (alums of Zuni Cafe and Chez Panisse) have reinvigorated the menu, now divided into Premieres (apps) and Features (mains). They're a multi-talented crew, and entrepreneurial too, selling their Country Egg, City Egg cookbook and a CD of Foriegn Cinema DJ faves, and have newly opened a modern art gallery off the outdoor dining area.

The Stand-outs Plump, fresh oysters and mignonette rival those at Zuni. Grilled calamari's smoky flavor peeks out from beneath a veil of charmoula, a green sauce with cilantro, grapeseed oil, cumin and coriander. Anchovy crostini smeared with hummus, Manchego cheese and greenery from beet tops blew my mind -- smooth and clever combinations. Skirt steak was flavorful next to early girl tomatoes, and the roasted grapes with the Moroccan spiced lamb sweet and pungent.

The So whats? Dessert was a bust -- the chocolate cake lacked enough luscious chocolate oomph, and the cherry on the side was an altogether dull dull dull accompaniment.

Foreign Cinema, San Francisco, 2534 Mission Street, 415.648.7600

Home On Union
The Scene Casual, comfortable, with tables on the front sidewalk if the weather is unseasonably warm. Inside a nice long bar offers sips of wine or cocktails for the early few (or those without a reservation), and the red and black theme is cozy without feeling '80s passé. Don't overdo it -- jeans are just fine, with sneaks or tottering heels. Bring a friend, bring family, bring a date.

The Staff An open kitchen in the back lets diners watch the happy cooks, all with baseball caps (a fashion trend or necessity?) do their thang. Our waitress was super sweet and offered a great recommendation on everything from white wine to side dishes to desserts (though she'd lived in Atlanta and never heard of chess pie, which they serve as brown sugar pie, my oh my!) She even told us her name, a quaint and genuine move that has somehow faded out of popularity -- except in down home, take it easy kinds of places.

The Stand-outs Smoked salmon is spread thin over creme fraiche and a wild rice and pecan pancake -- a refreshing take on salmon pizza. The pot roast melts in your mouth, and soft mashed potatoes and whole carrots remind you of mom. The thick-cut pork chop topped with peach chutney or roasted chicken -- seemingly a whole one, or at least one big piece of poultry -- are all classic hits. A side of corn muffins, thick and sweet like cake, or creamy mac and cheese must be shared at the table, and finish it off with the black and white chocolate molten cake. Yum.

The So whats? My Southern roots may have spoiled me forever, but their brown sugar pie, a version of chess pie (think pecan pie without the pecans) was lackluster and all the wrong consistency, much too mushy. But the non-Southerners at the table dug it and dug in, so go figure.

Home, San Francisco, 2032 Union Street, 415.931.5006

Comments

[clare eats]

Hi Catherine
I have tagged you for a new food and Wine MEME!
This post is exactly why I tagged you *sigh*
http://eatstuff.blogspot.com/2005/09/best-in-last-30.html

Hope you have fun!

[catherine]

Okay, I guess I am it! Look for it later this week...

[Mr Food Musings]

Hmmm... reading your write up of Foreign Cinema makes me think that this would be the place to take my sister when she visits. Thoughts?

[catherine]

Mr. FM -- yes, great idea, Foreign Cinema is definitely guest-worthy! Too bad I will not be able to join you...sniff, sniff.