Sushi

When Mr. Food Musings and I are dying for dinner out but need to be virtuous, we go for sushi. Those little protein bombs pack quite the anti-hunger punch, but are light on calories and fat and all those other bad things that make a gals' thighs jiggle. (Not mine, bien sur, but the gals who eat more french fries than sushi know what I'm talking about.)

We don't have a favorite sushi restaurant, but we have a stable of regulars. A girl in every port, so to speak -- that's us. A few months back I read an article that explains sushi etiquette -- bet you didn't know that eating with your fingers is okay, but dipping your nigiri in soy sauce rice side down is not -- and since then I've tried to practice proper form as much as possible.

Here's a rundown of our favorite sushi spots and some of the things I like about each one. Some boast great atmosphere, others fun cocktails, still others haven't got much going for them other than the fish -- but the fish has never let us down at any of these places. There are still tons of sushi restaurants we'd like to try -- Kyo-Ya, Sausalito's Sushi Ran, Koo, Kiss -- so if you have a favorite, post something about it in the comments and we'll try to make our way there. Hama-Ko is also on our list, but I have to work up the courage to call again and inquire about the omikase (kind of a chef's choice). Last time the chef pretended he didn't know what I was talking about, but I've heard since that only regulars are invited for the special treatment. Harumph. Anybody know anybody who knows somebody?

Blowfish Sushi to Die For Yeah, I know, you're rolling your eyes and thinking I'm not a real sushi lover. But come on! Who doesn't love the Ritsu Roll (two kinds of tuna, avocado, tobiko, nori, fried tempura-style and served in a martini glass with ponzu sauce)? Or the Pyramid of Tartare, a towering homage to the Egyptians fashioned from soft salmon, tuna, avocado and garnished with homemade waffle potato chips to scoop it all up. Plus the cocktails and TV screens showing animé are fun. 2170 Bryant Street, 415-285-3848

Ebisu When the weather is nice we head to the Inner Sunset for lunch at Ebisu, and then on to Golden Gate park for a tour of Stowe Lake in a pedal boat, or to read in the wind-sheltered Shakespeare's Garden. We've learned a lot from sitting at the bar, and one of our favorite things to order is the live scallop served nigiri-style in an opalescent shell with a fresh, razor-thin slice of lemon on top and a spicy dipping sauce. It's followed by a plate of sweet onion tempura. Their aji (Spanish mackerel) is amazing, with a sprinkling of scallions on top, and next time we go we plan to order an entire fish: the chef will offer nigiri, sashimi, and the skeleton deep-fried. CRUNCH. I've heard that expert sushi chefs show off their skill by flaying the aji alive. I suspect I'll have to go to Tokyo to see that. 1283 9th Avenue, 415-566-1770

Godzila It's got zero ambience and it's always chilly with the door whipping open and shut, but I went two weeks ago with low expectations and the fish was damn fine. The sushi chef was young and hip and happy to recommend his favorites. The sake (salmon) was soft and sweet and perfect, and the hirame (halibut) pleasant and light. Cheap prices usually make for long lines so go early or be patient. 1800 Divisadero Street, 415-931-1773

Kabuto Though I've only been once, it was enough to know that this is a gem of a spot and now tops my list. I've planned a longer write-up for later this week...so stay tuned. A teaser: the chef, known for his special sushi rolls, is said to see the unusual combinations in his dreams and, upon awakening, trots off to recreate them. One I'd like to try is the Valentine, with unagi, foie gras and chocolate sauce. More tomorrow... 5121 Geary Blvd, 415-752-5652

Osaka This is our neighborhood favorite. The same waitress works every shift, every day, and it's nice that she knows what I mean when I ask for that "sesame tuna" thing. It's only on the dinner menu, but it's great for lunch: lightly seared ahi tuna with sesame seeds, seaweed salad and a dipping sauce. The fish is great -- some of the best sake consistently and I love their crab and asparagus roll. 1923 Fillmore Street, 415-346-6788

Sushi Groove South I know, it's another "hip" spot, but I swear we always have great sushi there. My advice is to make a reservation, otherwise the too-cool-for-school staff will treat you like a leper. They do a great job pairing wines and champagnes to the fish, and they usually have wild salmon sushi on the menu that trumps everything else. <1516 Folsom Street, 415-503-1950

Tsunami Our friends R. and B. ("they've got rhythm...") love it and finally R. took me there. I have strong memories of sake both floral and dry -- and little else. Nevertheless, a good time was had by all and when Mr. FM and I returned last week, we nibbled on sawagani, Japanese freshwater popcorn crab that are flash-fried and served standing on their teeny little legs in golden-red shells with ponzu sauce on the side. I've never felt so naughty as I popped one in my mouth, making sure none of the legs dangled out. CRUNCH CRUNCH. Great selection of sakes so try some when you go. And the best aji I've had in the city. 1306 Fulton Street, 415-567-7664

Comments

[chef 'em out]

Whenever possible, I always go with the omikase.